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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 1:21 pm 
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[quote="fourseasoncomfortCOOLING"]PM sent to Sara.

Thanks,

Craig[/quot
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 3:31 pm 
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Sorry, it's shows in my outbox? Could you please pm me with your contact details?

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 6:59 am 
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Please see the details of the 2015 Milton Hawthorne Village 2015 AC group buy below!

http://hawthornevillager.com/phpbb/view ... =4&t=64051

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2015 10:21 pm 
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Hi,

I was just wondering I have one of these temp mizer hi velocity systems and it has really been struggling this summer. While I was taking a look at it I could feel that both the hot and cold water pipes leading in to it were both respectively hot and cold. This kind of confused my because I figured during the summer when cooling is on it doesn't make sense for hot water to flow to the furnace because heating is not needed. Am I wrong about this? Should the copper pipe nearest to the furnace be hot while cooling is on? I see a lever on the pipe to close the hot water line should I be closing this during the summer?

Any help is appreciated! Thank you.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:11 am 
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Kozik wrote:
Hi,

I was just wondering I have one of these temp mizer hi velocity systems and it has really been struggling this summer. While I was taking a look at it I could feel that both the hot and cold water pipes leading in to it were both respectively hot and cold. This kind of confused my because I figured during the summer when cooling is on it doesn't make sense for hot water to flow to the furnace because heating is not needed. Am I wrong about this? Should the copper pipe nearest to the furnace be hot while cooling is on? I see a lever on the pipe to close the hot water line should I be closing this during the summer?

Any help is appreciated! Thank you.


Yes you could shut off the water supply to the heating coil as it is not required during the cooling season. We have also seen some of the tempmizer air handlers main mother board fail which can result in having the air handler heating and cooling at the same.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:13 am 
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Location: Milton, Ontario
Hello - Looking for an opinion/advise. My Furnace is a Hi-Velocity HE-52H. It appears to have water damage from when the previous owner occupied the home, and a relay of some sort wired in but looks to have been repaired accordingly and it functions properly for the most part...air travels throughout the vents as it should and you can feel the air flow throughout the return.

When the blower motor is on it is causing the whole house to shake. I had a technician look at it, and noticed that with the panel off exposing the circuit board and motor... the shaking stops. The Technician also noticed that the housing assembly to the motor had a slight crack in it. I was then quoted a price to have this motor replaced. Not cheap. So i took it upon myself to learn a bit more about this furnace and noticed that I can change the speed of the motor at which it spins - so I figured i'd knock down the speed a notch using the dip switches. I put the panel back on, flip on the blower motor... the house no longer shakes. There is slight movement of the furnace with your hand on it, but nothing at all like it was previously (day and night difference). Air flow is moving very well throughout all vents, and most importantly it doesn't feel like there's an earthquake.

Any ideas? Opinions... suggestions? I am torn if I should go ahead with replacing the motor and assembly...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 1:09 pm 
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rUbbish wrote:
Hello - Looking for an opinion/advise. My Furnace is a Hi-Velocity HE-52H. It appears to have water damage from when the previous owner occupied the home, and a relay of some sort wired in but looks to have been repaired accordingly and it functions properly for the most part...air travels throughout the vents as it should and you can feel the air flow throughout the return.

When the blower motor is on it is causing the whole house to shake. I had a technician look at it, and noticed that with the panel off exposing the circuit board and motor... the shaking stops. The Technician also noticed that the housing assembly to the motor had a slight crack in it. I was then quoted a price to have this motor replaced. Not cheap. So i took it upon myself to learn a bit more about this furnace and noticed that I can change the speed of the motor at which it spins - so I figured i'd knock down the speed a notch using the dip switches. I put the panel back on, flip on the blower motor... the house no longer shakes. There is slight movement of the furnace with your hand on it, but nothing at all like it was previously (day and night difference). Air flow is moving very well throughout all vents, and most importantly it doesn't feel like there's an earthquake.

Any ideas? Opinions... suggestions? I am torn if I should go ahead with replacing the motor and assembly...


We will require some additional information. You may give me a call at 416-524-7228 at your convenience to discuss.

Thanks,
Craig

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viewtopic.php?t=24763


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:14 am 
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Location: Milton, Ontario
For everyone who has a Hi-velocity furnace, where are you getting your filters from? 16X16X1 has been difficult to come by.

I've only been able to find a single pack of 3 from Home Hardware which are very inexpensive and are constructed of Fibreglass. I am not sure what MERV rating is recommended for these Hi-Velocity Furnace's, but the ones at HH from DUSTSTOP have a MERV4 rating, and a life span of 30day's -Will this suffice? We have 1 Cat...

I've read people cutting larger Filters to fit, but I do not believe this would be the most practical/reliable solution.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:16 pm 
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I noticed today that my ac had trouble getting the house below 22 degrees celcius in the afternoon. It was 21 all morning rose to 22 and ac kept running and is still running but house wont go to 21.

Someone i had over said its because today is extra hot. However i believe it should of been able to go lower.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:23 pm 
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If its a new Mattamy house, the contractors always under charge the freon to only about 80% capacity. This saves them 20%. If the installer does that for a few houses, guess what, he has enough freon to do a side job! Got it? Unless you have a leak, you will need to call him to check the pressure. If its low, he will top up the freon, then you should be ok. If you unit is 10 years old. Throw it in the lake. I am not joking. Technology and energy efficiencies have changed in last few years, so its not worth holding on to older models. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 8:25 pm 
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X


Last edited by lancaster on Mon Jun 20, 2016 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:13 pm 
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007 wrote:
I noticed today that my ac had trouble getting the house below 22 degrees celcius in the afternoon. It was 21 all morning rose to 22 and ac kept running and is still running but house wont go to 21.

Someone i had over said its because today is extra hot. However i believe it should of been able to go lower.


He's right - under this kind of heat, your AC will run non stop to try to get to 21 or 22 degrees. Fact of life in single family homes.

Mine, my fathers (with NEWLY INSTALLED AC from Mason @ nissan air) and my sisters have been running pretty much all day - it's much too hot.

As for the hearsay on the freon comment - we'll that's just hearsay...


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:36 pm 
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Xx


Last edited by lancaster on Mon Jun 20, 2016 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 9:45 pm 
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That's absolute crap - in heatwave weather AC units will have an extremely hard time keeping up specifically in the dead of the afternoon when heat is at its peak.

Mason is NOT a hack job - find a bad review here on him - there isn't one. He's a stand up guy and doesn't give you a mis-sized unit. 3 ton for a 2500 sq ft house is not Mis-sized.

My friend - you have some learning to do. Ask any of the REAL HVAC professionals here. When you have heat like today, your AC will run a lot more than normal to keep up.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2016 10:41 pm 
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In my case I noticed house was 21 all morning, then rose to 22 then by 3pm rose to 23 ac continued to run nonstop to maintain 23.

I find it hard to believe thats how things should be. Im concerned its an issue with air flow or insulation though. I was smart enough to measure the air in my return which was 23 degrees vs the cold air out of registers was 11.5 degrees

this tells me the unit is cooling however the amount of air flow in most parts of my house is not what i think it should be.

Im no pro but my previous homes my air vents felt like a CFM engine compaired to this place.

if freon was low the pipe out of ac would have ice on it and the air blowing would be warm no?


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