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PostPosted: Sun Jan 07, 2018 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:33 pm
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I'm looking at insulating the top third of my cold room. It is too cold in the winter and much too hot in the summer. I have read some websites that suggest using 2" pink rigid foam fibreglass and attaching it with construction adhesive. There is also mention of sealing the edges with canned spray foam and covering the foam with drywall. Why do the edges need spray foam? Why does the fiberglass need to be covered with drywall? I'm looking for any advice or suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 6:47 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2008 10:14 am
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Location: Milton
SANDMAN wrote:
I'm looking at insulating the top third of my cold room. It is too cold in the winter and much too hot in the summer. I have read some websites that suggest using 2" pink rigid foam fibreglass and attaching it with construction adhesive. There is also mention of sealing the edges with canned spray foam and covering the foam with drywall. Why do the edges need spray foam? Why does the fiberglass need to be covered with drywall? I'm looking for any advice or suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated.


Pink or blue rigid foam is not fiberglass. It is foam. It needs to be covered with drywall because it is a fire hazard and the fumes from it in case of a fire will quickly kill you. It says this right on each piece of the pink or blue foam.

When cold rooms become hot in the summer then the vent(s) in the cold room should be temporarily blocked for the summer and the door left open.

If you want to finish the cold room and turn it into a storage room then forget about gluing the foam to the walls and covering it with drywall. First the vent hole(s) need to be properly filled / blocked. Then the walls AND ceiling need to be fully framed, insulated, and a good vapour barrier needs to be properly installed. The sill plate at the bottom of the framed wall needs to be isolated from the concrete floor. To do this you could use 6mm plastic but FoamSealR Sill Gasket is better ( See link below ). Then drywall can be used to cover the framed wall but make sure it is about 1/2 inch off the floor. This new room should technically have a source of heat and ventilation so a duct and register may need to installed from the furnace plenum to vent into the cold room BUT this may be avoided if a louvered door is installed or at least a large "grate" or two be installed on the existing door. Also remove the weatherstrip around the door.

If you do not have HVAC ventilation for the room then mold may grow.

For all it's worth - it would not hurt to install Dricore flooring before the walls are put up. Then the sill plate gasket will not be needed. See link - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.2-ft-x-2-ft-engineered-subfloor-panel-system.1000112986.html

Foam Sill Gasket - https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.foamsealr-sill-gasket---5-12-inch-x-82-feet-x-316-inch.1000150656.html

_________________
For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:08 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:03 am
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You could use foam but it won't provide much r-value on its own. Most people who install the foam do that first with the foam adhesive and then frame with 2x4's in front (give the 2x4s a thermal break from the concrete wall), and then use R16 batts on top for around r22 combined after you add the vapour barrier and drywall, in addition to all the stuff that was just mentioned in the post above.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 11:59 am 
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Joined: Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:46 pm
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When we finished our basement this summer, we just framed in the space (metal studs), roxul batt insulation, vapor barrier, and foam filled the exterior vent holes. Also like Andy said, we removed the weather strip from the bottom of the door (and replaced the storm door with a regular interior door). So far so good. The summer stayed a normal temp even when hot out, and it's been cool but not cold in the winter.


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