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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2008 9:52 pm 
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JClayton wrote:
I've heard that windex works great on hardwood. is this recommended?


No. Unless you dilute it. Just get a proper hardwood cleaner or a damp cloth is just fine.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 2:26 pm 
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We are leaning towards hardwood flooring similar to what you have shown in those pics. A dark ebony or walnut stain on either oak or maple floors and stairs.

what are the downfalls of going with this choice? Any major consequences?

How do the dark floors and stairs handle wear and tear over time? is the finish durable? or in a year will it look like crap?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 6:43 pm 
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ppst99 wrote:
We are leaning towards hardwood flooring similar to what you have shown in those pics. A dark ebony or walnut stain on either oak or maple floors and stairs.

what are the downfalls of going with this choice? Any major consequences?

How do the dark floors and stairs handle wear and tear over time? is the finish durable? or in a year will it look like crap?

The only downfalls might be the dust that will show slightly more on dark colours, but no real downfalls.

Colour of floors has nothing to do with wear. Particular manufacturers like Vintage or Mirage have one of the best finishes out there. Your floors in regular household traffic will not wear for 20 years or so. In that case I don't see a problem.

Your stairs with the darker stain, same thing. If appropriate number of coats & proper finish is used, nothing will happen. I recommend 3 coats of good finish, like oil Varathane.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:43 am 
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AndreaandAndrew wrote:
I would love to replace our carpet with hardwood, but will my dogs destroy it? I would be leaning towards a dark stain to match the rest of the wood in my house.

That depends how large the dogs are? The best advice I can give you if you have dogs, is to go with the hand scraped finish. Due to the uneven look of the planks & the distressed marks, any new scratches will be better hidden vs. a nice smooth maple finish floor.

Oak wood, due to its grain hides the defects more especially if it's hand scraped, even though it's softer than maple but because maple has a smooth finish, you will tend to see the defects that much more.

It has a very modern yet traditional look to it & it's very trendy right now. It comes in 5" or 7" planks only. It is a little bit more expensive but well worth it, since you only do it once. Plus no need to worry about every little scratch the dog might make :D

Here is a good close up of the Vintage hand scraped, you can see the scraping of the boards, each board will be different since it is really done by hand, not machine. It comes in 6 colours.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:37 am 
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windhaven wrote:
A question for you 'patrob' and thanks for starting this thread to answer our questions.

We are going with standard carpet since Mattamy is very expensive, and will do hardwood after closing. Since Mattamy will have already installed the baseboards with the quarter-round by the time we move in, is it best to remove both pieces when we take out the carpet or just the quarter-round? I've heard some installers say that we can leave the baseboards in place and when they install the hardwood, they leave a 3/8" gap between the hardwood and the baseboard, which can then be covered up with a 3/8" quarter-round. My concern, however, is that if they leave a 3/8" gap and we cover this up with a 3/8" molding, what happens when the wood shrinks a bit or the gap is more than 3/8" - this will mean that the finish will be awful as you will see the ends of the planks. I would hate to have to remove all the baseboards, though. What do you think?

Thanks again.

Glad you find the thread helpful :D

There is no need to remove the baseboards. Plus with carpets there is no quarter round installed by the builder, only tiled areas will have quarter round. So either the installer or you will have to supply it. But make sure you paint it first before installation & just do small touch ups after.

You should leave a smaller gap between the baseboard & the new floor, anywhere from 3/16" to 1/4" is fine. That way you won't see any gaps.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:05 am 
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I do prefer the look of the door stop moulding vs. the standard quarter round which just looks so plain. But if you decide on installing the door stop moulding on your new floors, it would be a good idea to also change it on that same level where the tiles are, so it all matches & flows together.

I do agree that the baseboards are not that hard to replace. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, pay the floor installed to do it. And still probably cheaper that what the builder was charging you for that upgrade :wink:

We are planning to rip our original baseboards when we install our hardwood floors sometime this spring hopefully :D Yes, we still have carpets :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:03 am 
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windhaven wrote:
Patrob, the height of the tiled area and the hardwood area is another concern that I have. By my calculations, when we rip out the carpet and underpad, and install a 3/4" hardwood, in areas where tile meets up with the hardwood, the height difference will be about 1/4"....correct?

If I remove the baseboards, as Bruno suggested, and installed brand new baseboards, I will still be faced with this 1/4" height difference. We have a wall which separates a tiled area and a hardwood area. How would you install the baseboard that sits partially on the tiled area and partially on the hardwood area to make up for this 1/4" height difference? The only way that I can think to fix this is to have the last plank sloped down 1/4" where it meets this wall; this will ensure that it is at the same level as the tile.

The installer will install the reducer that will slope down to the tiles.

Once you install your new baseboards & you get to the tiles, just install the baseboard at the same height as you did on your hardwood, so 1/4" off the tiles. The door stop will cover that gap, so not to worry. So your baseboards in the tiled areas will be 1/4" higher but that will not be visible once door stop is installed.

Hope that helps :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:44 am 
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Hey everyone, Milton Hardwood floors on Steeles West has the Vintage7" Handscraped planks on sale this month btw $7.99/sq. foot.

I've eliminated the Jatoba option because I too prefer this look. They have 5 choices that are all pretty nice depending on your personal preference.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 12:11 pm 
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janda_mel wrote:
Hey everyone, Milton Hardwood floors on Steeles West has the Vintage7" Handscraped planks on sale this month btw $7.99/sq. foot.

I've eliminated the Jatoba option because I too prefer this look. They have 5 choices that are all pretty nice depending on your personal preference.

That is actually a very good price, usually this type of wood sells for more than $8 sq. ft. They also have 5" that might be slightly less... It is expensive but it looks amazing. People spend so much money on their upgrades for their homes, so paying slightly more for this type of product is worth it. Plus this is an engineered product with a solid sawn core. It does not contract like regular planks & is more stable, which is a big benefit.

Actually they have 6 colours to choose from now...
www.vintageflooring.com/colorshs.asp

The pics I posed earlier are Baroque colour.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:41 pm 
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We just purchased a WOODBINE VILLAGE HOME (elevation B) and wanted to get at least some idea of what we're looking at to get the stairs finished in hardwood.

Unfortunately there was no prices given to us at the design centre today as we just went in on a whim to have a boo.

Can anyone give us some sort of idea as to what we're looking at for the stairs alone and what a typical $ per square foot from Mattamy is.

Thanks very much!


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:53 pm 
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2009Miltonite wrote:
We just purchased a WOODBINE VILLAGE HOME (elevation B) and wanted to get at least some idea of what we're looking at to get the stairs finished in hardwood.

Unfortunately there was no prices given to us at the design centre today as we just went in on a whim to have a boo.

Can anyone give us some sort of idea as to what we're looking at for the stairs alone and what a typical $ per square foot from Mattamy is.

Thanks very much!


I always recommend to get the hardwood stairs from the builder, it just saves a lot of mess & headaches.

Can't comment on actual Mattamy prices per sq. ft. for hardwood, but based from some upgrade lists posted I calculated it to be anywhere from approx. $11 (+-) for Bruce & $13+ for Mirage.

So if you don't mind paying more & really want hardwood once you move in, then this is the option for you. But if want to save yourself some money & get a better quality product for less, do it after closing.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 3:38 pm 
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Thanks patrob.

We're definitely having the builder to the stairs - without even an idea of what the cost may be. We'll find that out within the next few weeks.

The floors, well, as you said, we may decide to do afterwards.

I just wish the pricing from the design centre was available now (for all things).


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:59 am 
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geeves wrote:
quick questions - we live in a village townhome - we have the springdale model which has a front rooom/den - it can be quite chillybecause the carpet is right on cement unlike upstairs which has the subfloor - we wan't to hardwood in January - is there anything we can do and what are your prices like for oak hardwood ??
thanks
G

If you have concrete sub-floor, you can only install an engineered product, since you can't nail down the wood. You can float the wood or glue it down to concrete. Engineered is slightly more expensive and if you want to glue it, there's an extra cost for the glue.

To help with the cold from the concrete you can add cork which will help but that's an extra cost approx $1.50-$1.75 sq. ft.

For engineered without cork, you are looking roughly around $10-$10.75 total sq. ft. with installation.

Hope this helps :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 10:07 am 
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2009Miltonite wrote:
Thanks patrob.

We're definitely having the builder to the stairs - without even an idea of what the cost may be. We'll find that out within the next few weeks.

The floors, well, as you said, we may decide to do afterwards.

I just wish the pricing from the design centre was available now (for all things).

You're welcome :wink:

Yes, it's a good idea to do the stairs with the builder, less mess & more time to concentrate on other things after you move in :D

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:58 am 
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If anyone wants to share, show us your beautiful hardwood floors/stairs pics. Everybody loves to look at pictures, so show it off :D

I wish I could show my hardwood floors, but don't have them installed yet :( , they are coming this summer though :P

I will try to find a pic. of my dark stained stairs. Ok, here it is. It was taken after we had stained the stairs.
Image


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