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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2008 6:46 pm 
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Location: Milton
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Buying a new home should be one of life's most gratifying experiences.
We can help make that happen.


For owners of new built homes -

We are new home warranty inspection specialists and will perform independent, professional and thorough Tarion New Home Warranty Inspections for our clients. Our services for new homes include 30 Day, One Year Warranty Inspections, or a package price for both inspections. Our inspections often reveal a substantial list of deficiencies that your builder is required to repair, provide or improve. We will inform you on why specific issues are a problem and what your builder should do to remedy the situation. We offer unlimited phone support and will stand by you for no charge for our local clients if conciliation between you, Tarion, and your builder is required. You will also learn how to maintain your new home.

Our specialized training, services, ethics, and experience will ensure you receive the very best value and benefit from your Home Inspection. We will provide you high quality information, exceptional service, our Home Reference Book reporting system, and all Tarion Warranty Forms.

For Buyers of resale homes -

Most Home Inspection companies market their services to Realtors because they depend on Realtors for referrals. We consider this practice to be a conflict of interest that works against the best interest of home buyers. Unfortunately, many buyers of resale homes call the home inspection company that their Realtor has suggested. This can be a huge mistake. Halton Home Inspection Service is one of the few inspection companies in Canada that does not market to, or rely on Realtors for referrals. Protect your investment, call us for your thorough and independent Home Inspection.

Renowned throughout southern Ontario for excellence and quality, Halton Home Inspection Service performs a wide range of services that include-

- New Home 30 Day and One Year Home Inspections.
- Pre - Purchase Home Inspections
- Pre - Listing Home Inspections
- Individual Consultations.


Our Inspector, Andy Shaw, lives in Milton, Ontario, and is a Certified Home Inspector and a trained Defect Recognition Specialist. He has been specifically trained by The Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing to identify Building Envelope Issues. He is also a Member of The Independent Home Inspectors of North America where our primary mission is to promote consumer protection for home buyers through education.

YOU are the most important person in the Home Inspection process and we encourage you to join Andy during your home inspection and feel free to ask questions.

Or, Call us direct at 905 876 4761

FOR VALUABLE INFORMATION AND TIPS VISIT OUR WEBSITE

http://www.haltoninspections.com

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The power of technology helps us help you.

Our technology gives us, and you, the power to see what no one else can see.

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Halton Home Inspection Service has, for many years, used advanced Forward Looking Infra Red, (FLIR) technology to enhance our service to locate hidden defects, leaks, water damage, missing insulation*, electrical defects, and other potential problems in your home.

When problems like moisture are found with our Infra-Red camera, we will use it to take an Infra-Red image and a regular digital image of the area where the problem is. We will then produce, and e-mail you a PDF FLIR Report showing both images with a description of the issue. This will give you solid documentation to provide to your builder.

Please note that during inspections we scan 1st floor ceilings below washrooms for moisture issues and all second or third floor ceilings below attics to look for and evaluate insulation issues. We will also scan electrical panels or any where else if we suspect a problem that IR may help diagnose.



Everything is not always as it seems.

Below are some images showing small leaks on 2 bedroom ceilings in this one year old home. Once found with Infra-Red a moisture meter was then used to confirm the dark areas were in fact wet. These Infra-Red and digital photos showing these problems are included as part of the online PDF warranty inspection report that we send to our client who can then simply attach the report as a "supporting document" to their Tarion one year list.


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Some builders workers are just lazy.

This IR image shows where a tile installer simply tiled over a HVAC floor register. Being familiar with this builder, the model of the home, and where HVAC vents are required, I was surprised when looking in this area that the HVAC register was missing. Infra-Red easly confirmed that the floor registed was in fact covered.

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Why bother with an "ordinary" home inspection ??.

Without Infra Red, serious issues are invisisble. Take for example this one year old luxury townhome in Mississauge with a 3rd floor suite and flat roof deck. The suite and deck is directly above the second floor master bedroom and master bathroom. The problem here is that insulation is missing below the entire deck area making large areas of the master bedroom and bathroom ceilings cold in the winter and hot in the summer.

As you can see in the regular digital photos, everything looks fine, but Infra Red images of the same areas show a very different story as the dark areas are cold because insulation is completely missing.

This homeowner had to fight his builder to get this repaired but it was done.

As a result of this inspection - I must also assume that the other townhomes in this development have the same serious defect. The other owners of these home are in for a nasty and very expensive suprise when they discover that they also have this problem.


Master bedroom ceiling -

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Master bathroom ceiling -

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Look ????? A kitchen cabinet with a built in bun warmer ???

The Infra Red image shows a hot area under this new homes kitchen cabinet because it was installed over an HVAC supply register. While this may warm buns in the winter, it's much better to get the builder to re-locate the floor register to a proper location.

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Missing dryer vent behind siding.

When it was discovered during the one year warrnty inspection that this home was missing the dryer exhaust vent I asked the homeowner to turn on the dryer. Infra Red easily discovered the location of the vent duct behind the siding making the repair a bit easier for the builder.

Good thing this homeowner had this one year home inspection because prolonged use of a blocked dryer is a fire hazard, pours moisture and lint into the structure, and can greatly reduce the resale value of the home if / when discovered during a buyers pre-purchase inspection.

Next time a builder tells you that you don't need a proper independent home inspection of your new home then ask yourself why that person would suggest you not protect your investment to determine if the builder has missed anything or not done things properly.

BTW - builders who are confident of the product they produce will encourage you to have your own independent warranty inspection.


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For additional information, or to book your inspection, please feel free to call - Andy Shaw @ 905 876 4761 or visit our webite at - http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________
For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Wed Feb 10, 2016 4:08 pm, edited 40 times in total.

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 Post subject: Home Inspection Services
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:56 am 
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New Home ?? Foundation Crack ?? Why not do a "Water Test".

Your new home has a foundation water leakage warranty for 2 years, yet your foundation warranty for cracks under 6mm wide (1/4 inch) is only covered for one year. Even hairline cracks in foundations can leak. If your new home is under 2 years old, and you are aware of a small crack or two, then why not protect yourself and do your own Water Test. If it results in a leak, then your builder will likely be required to fix the crack for you, even if it is to small for the one year coverage. Doing your own Water Test will force your house to reveal foundation problems while you still have warranty coverage.

The 3 paragraphs below are from the Tarion Construction Performance Guidelines Appendix 5. It is vital if you are going to do your own Water Test that you follow the guidelines exactly. Your builder may conduct his own test to confirm your results before repairing the crack.

How to Conduct a Water Test

A water test shall be performed to confirm water leaks, both above and below grade. Above grade the intent is to simulate an average, wind-driven rainfall but should never be done using full pressure in a single-stream or pressure-altering device such as a pressure washer. This can force water through building assemblies and flashings not intended for high-volume or high-pressure water saturation. Below grade the intent is to simulate natural water flow around a foundation caused by rain or snow melting where the water may inadvertently be directed towards the foundation wall. Water penetration is considered to be bulk water coming into the basement or accumulating near the point of entry, or dampness on the wall appearing as a result of the test, but excludes dampness caused by condensation or other causes.

Above Grade Test

Use a standard garden hose and sprayer attachment. The sprayer attachment should be set on shower or other similar dispersal pattern. Spray the area to be tested for not more than 10 minutes from a minimum distance of 2 m. Have another person checking inside for the point of origin and the length of time it takes for water to appear. Areas to be investigated should be kept dry prior to the test.

Below Grade Test

Use a standard garden hose with no attachments. The hose bib should be set at about half flow to simulate melting snow or rainfall. The water from the hose is to be directed along the face of the foundation to allow the water to run parallel to the wall, at grade, finding its own way down the
exterior of the wall to the perimeter foundation drains. Run the water for not more than 20 minutes checking periodically for water penetration. Identify the location and the point of entry of any water (crack, tie rod, snap tie, honeycombing) and the length of time it takes for water to appear.

Andy Shaw
Certified Home Inspector - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________
For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:56 pm, edited 10 times in total.

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 Post subject: New Home Inspection
PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:26 am 
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Not all my reviews are from clients.

imr123 wrote:
Thank you MR ANDY SHAW for your professionalism in your field of home inspection. You were God sent to us, being in my neighbourhood while inspecting another house, you noticed the mistake done to our brand new house by the builder, that saved us tens of thousands of dollars.

Thank you so much, keep up the good work.

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:13 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:40 am 
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Product Review - RIALCO Flood Alarm.

Every once in a while a great product comes along, that few people know about, and that every home should have. The RIALCO Flood Alarm is one of them.

As you know, all the new homes built in Milton require a Sump Pit and Pump. Some sumps run on a regular basis while others rarely come on. The problem is, that one day, your sump pump will likely fail, or, maybe the sump pump float will just get blocked in the pit and fail to activate the pump. Regardless of why a sump pump could fail, why not prepare in advance, and protect your property?

The RIALCO Flood Alarm's flexible design allows you to place or install it where ever you want to monitor for water, leaks, or overflows. When the Flood Alarm detects water, a loud siren is sounded to alert you. It operates on a 9 volt battery that is provided.

The Rialco Flood Alarm was created in the 1980's after a Canadian inventor flooded several floors of his downtown condominium by leaving his bathtub running to answer a phone call. Since that incident, thousands of people world-wide have benefited from the monitoring and early detection capabilities of the Rialco Flood Alarm.

Established in 2001, to distribute the product worldwide, Rialco Inc. is a family operated Canadian company dedicated to manufacturing this high quality and durable alarm.

Personally, I don't have a sump in my home, but for years I have relied on Rialco Flood Alarms. One monitors the condensate pump beside my furnace, and the other monitors a vulnerable area in my basement where water can get in after snow melts and heavy rain.

To install the RIALCO Flood Alarm at your sump, simply install the 9 volt battery and insert the moisture detection probe, about 10 inches, into the pit through one of the holes in the sump pit cover. The Alarm will simply sit above the cover, ready to alert you should the water in the pit get higher than it should.

This fantastic product is available at Home Hardware Stores for under $20.

Milton Home Hardware Building Centre
385 Steeles Ave. East. Milton, Ontario.
Phone 905 878 9222


RIALCO Inc. website - http://www.rialco.com/

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Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com


Product Review - Leviton Bathroom Fan Timers.

Why not consider Leviton Electronic Timers for your bathroom fans ??

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I always thought that one of the best features that people can add to a home is to install timers to control bathroom and powder room fans.

After a shower, your fan should run for at least 30 minutes, some think one hour is needed to remove all humidity. And, wouldn't it be nice if that powder room fan could be set to stay on for 15 minutes or so?

Leviton Timers are a simple solution and they add contemporary styling to any home. Built to the highest performance standards these decora style Electronic Timers provide a long lasting trouble free service life. These units come in various configurations to suit different applications. For example - There is no need to run a Powder Room fan for a full hour. So consider the model with 2, 5, 10, 15 minute presets plus an OFF button. These timers are ideal for other applications including controlling heat lamps, foyer and outdoor lights, and /or whirlpool tubs. Small red LED's beside the timer buttons indicate elapsed time.

These timers replace your existing wall switch, but because they are actually electronic devices, they are quite a bit larger than an ordinary switch. This makes them a fairly tight fit into the electrical box. Therefore, if you are not handy at dealing with electrical issues I would suggest an electrician install these for you. These timers are not intended to be used in 3 way switching application. If your home does not have an HRV, you will likely have a three way fan switch beside your thermostat that will turn your main bath fan ON or OFF. If that is the case then you will only be able to install these timers for your Powder Room and Master Bath fans

These Timers are available at hardware stores. About $30. each.
Common configurations that are generally available are -

2, 5, 10, 15, OFF. Or
5, 10, 15, 30, OFF. Or
10, 20, 30, 60, OFF.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________
For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:35 am, edited 22 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:06 am 
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Is the garage in your new home Gas-Proofed from the house?

By Andy Shaw - Tuesday Feb. 3rd 2009.

Yesterday, carbon monoxide killed a Markham man and put his wife in hospital after the CO seeped into the home after their car was accidentally left running in the garage.

The couple left the car running with the garage door open while they were getting ready to go out. They changed their minds and decided not to leave. Using a remote opener, they shut the garage door, forgetting that the car was running.

Whatever the story, this same problem repeats every year, often with tragic results. While your CO detector is good defence, it's best to find and repair the cause of the problem.

This is the issue -

When a garage is attached to a home, it must be 100% gas-proofed from the home.

This means that there can be no holes, gaps, cracks, or any other openings in any part of the garage walls or ceilings that are attached to the home. The Man-door must properly self close and be of exterior grade and weather stripped. Trim around this door must be 100% sealed. The hose bib, vacuum pipes, etc., must all be caulked. Unused vacuum pipes must be sealed with red Tuck Tape.

It is absolutely necessary to confirm that your garage is 100% gas-proofed from your home. Don't depend on your builder to do this properly as most garages that we inspect, have gas-proofing deficiencies.

Homes have negative air pressure. Even more so when exhaust fans are running in bathrooms and kitchens. If the garage is not gas-proofed, then air in the garage WILL get sucked into the home.

This is what you need to look for in your new home garage - but before you start looking, consider this question. Will a bucket, with a pin hole, hold water?

1) Is the vacuum pipe and hose bib in the garage caulked where it goes through the wall?

2) If not in use, is the vacuum pipe in the garage sealed with red Tuck Tape? NOT Duct Tape, or green painters tape.

3) Are there any cracks or holes in the drywall, or loose drywall tape?

4) Carefully inspect all around the Man Door trim. Is it completely sealed? Use a hand mirror to look at the top and bottom trim for any gaps or holes.

5) Does the closer on the Man Door work? Does it close the door every time? Does it only close the Man Door when the garage door is open? If the Man Door closer does not completely close and seal that door, then it needs to be fixed.

6) Carefully inspect all drywall. In areas that are not visible, use your hand mirror and look at the underside of these areas. There should be no gaps, cracks, or holes.

Pay attention to the walls and ceiling areas that are attached to the home. The interior walls of the garage that face the exterior of the home are not generally a concern.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________
For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:24 am, edited 13 times in total.

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 Post subject: Home Inspection
PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:51 am 
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Should I take a Home Inspector to the PDI?

This is a great question. Even most Home Inspectors get this one wrong.

Here is my answer.

You could take a Home Inspector with you for your PDI, but NOT for a Home Inspection.

A home inspection is a specific process. It is a top to bottom complete examination of the home and the functional equipment in the home. In order to benefit from your Home Inspection, you will need to live in, and use the house for at least 25 days.

The purpose of the PDI is for your builder to show you your new home in it's completed state, and to make note of scratches, dents, chips, or any other damage to counters, floors, doors, walls, cabinets, cupboards, mirrors, toilets, tubs, windows, glass, etc. It IS NOT the time to do a complete home inspection as your builder, who owns the home during the PDI is not required to allow a Home Inspector to crawl around the roof, open the furnace or electrical panels, examine the attic etc. This can and should be done later.

The Builders Rep is responsible for, and controls the PDI process. It usually takes one hour for every 1000 square feet.

Note everything that is incomplete, damaged, and items that are in good condition. Note areas that are dirty as this dirt, IE- on a hardwood floor, will make it impossible to do a thorough inspection of that floor.

Before your PDI, review the Construction Performance Guidelines on Tarion's website for all issues that will not be covered after the PDI if not detected during the PDI.

Be very diligent and carefully examine all hardwood floors and stairways. Not just for damage like chips and scratches, but also for cupping or crowning.

If after you move in, you notice a dent on your front door and a big scratch on the hardwood floor, then you have a problem. Even if this damage was not done while moving in, it is still, at this point, not covered by the builder and they will not be required to fix it unless you can prove that the damage was there during the PDI.

During the PDI, take your list of upgrades, a digital camera, and a notepad. DO NOT take children. The PDI is not the time to show friends or family the home.

Our company, Halton Home Inspection Service has developed our own unique service called PDI Assist. For information on this service visit our website at http://www.haltoninspections.com or call us by phone.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761

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Hardwood floors, "cupping", and the Pre Delivery Inspection ( PDI ) at your brand new home.

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Cupping refers to boards on which the edges are higher than the center of the board across it's width. Cupping usually occurs when the boards have been exposed to moisture that causes the edges to swell. This moisture can be from a leak, but in new construction it is usually a result of excessive humidity in the home. In some cases the cupping will disappear after the moisture has been corrected and the wood has had time to dry thoroughly but in many cases the damage is irreversible.

The top picture is typical of cupping in a new home where hot weather and high humidity in the home has effected the hardwood. This cupping is more subtle but obvious when the floor is carefully examined.

The bottom picture is cupping caused by a leak and extreme humidity in an existing home. This floor will likely never recover from the damage and will need to be replaced.

A few unfortunate situations have recently come to my attention regarding hardwood floor conditions during the PDI.

During the PDI the new home owners felt that "something" was not right with the hardwood floors and in each case, the home owners concerns were dismissed by the builders PDI rep.

In the cases that I am aware of, the home owners discovered after the PDI that the hardwood had "cupped" and that this specific issue was required to be identified at the PDI if it was to be covered by warranty.

Quote:
Tarion condition number 12.21 specifically states -

"Strip hardwood flooring shall be installed without cupping."

"Cupping caused by excessive humidity due to failure by the homeowner to maintain adequate ventilation is excluded from the statutory warranty."

"Cupping identified at the time of the PDI shall be repaired."

"The homeowner has a responsibility to maintain indoor humidity levels through humidification, ventilation, air conditioning or dehumidification to prevent permanent, irreversible damage."


Now these homeowners are faced with the burden of keeping track of and maintaining specific humidity levels in the home, in faint hopes that the condition will correct itself.

I contacted a hardwood floor expert and he said.

"The builder should not be installing hardwood in the home where humidity levels are not controlled."

As you know, when new homes are built in the summer, humidity levels in the air can be very high. Air conditioners and dehumidifiers are not employed during construction to control humidity in the home. This exasperates the situation and contributes to an environment where "cupping", warping, and other hardwood conditions like crowning can occur.

I am waiting to be impressed by "some" PDI reps. They should be trained professionals who are able and willing to step up to the plate and acknowledge and identify symptoms and conditions in the home other than the standard counter scratches or dent in a wall.

During your PDI, check the hardwood floors carefully for a wavy appearance. Get down on the floor, run your hand over the boards to feel if they lie flat. Use a straight edge across the floor boards to confirm that they are flat. If any cupping or crowning is found then you must insist that the specific issue is noted on the PDI form.

Buying and taking possession of your new home should be an enjoyable experience that is not tarnished by a feeling that you have been taken advantage of.

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Mon Oct 06, 2014 7:12 am, edited 15 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 7:57 pm 
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Originally posted Feburary 8th 2009 during a big snow melt.

Sump Pumps call for help !!

Has the Halton Home Inspector gone a bit nutty ??

Why else would someone suggest that sump pumps are calling for help.

Here is the answer.

Now that the snow is melting, and with rain coming soon, there are many busy little sump pumps all around Milton, pumping away as their sump pits continue to fill with water. So what happens to that water ? The water is diverted out of the house through a black plastic pipe that dumps the water right beside the house. Most of time, at this time of year, and at many homes, a lot of this water just runs down the exterior foundation wall, back under the house, and back into the sump pit, where the motor pumps it out again.

This sump recycling action can go on and on, and your sump pump works harder than it needs to.

At this time of year, when sump pumps are busy, it might be a good idea to be creative and set up some temporary method to divert this water well away from your home. Make a path in the snow, jerry rig an extension, or at least confirm that your splash block is right up against the foundation wall and sloped away from the home.

Your sump pump will thank you.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:21 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2008 8:20 am 
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HRV 101 - By Andy Shaw - March 15 2009

A real Heat Recovery Ventilator ( HRV ) needs to have these components,

1 - A fresh air supply fan.
2 - An exhaust fan.
3 - An air to air exchanger.


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Keeping your Heat Recovery Ventilator maintained can help keep your homes environment fresh, clean and healthy.

The problem is that many people don't even know what they do.

Winter is when HRV's are used the most. This is because we are closed in, windows and doors are never left open, and fresh air rarely gets a chance to enter the home. In the winter, the HRV takes warm stale air from inside the home and sends it outside. At the same time, it pulls cool fresh air into the home. As the warm air is passed over the cool air, the HRV transfers the heat from that air to the cool air coming in from outside. This warms the fresh cool air that is brought into the home.

Many people only use their HRV for an hour or so after cooking, but most people leave them on at an intermittent setting so that the unit runs for a few minutes every hour.

To keep your HRV running well, you should follow these steps.

NOTE - Before you service or clean your HRV, it should be turned off.

1) Clean the foam Air Filters.
Clogged foam filters can lower ventilation efficiency and damage the fans. Clean your filters every three months. Filters in most new HRVs can be easily removed, cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, and then washed with soap and water before being dried and replaced. This job should only take a few minutes.

2) Inspect the plastic Condensate Drain Pipe.
Your HRV has a clear condensate drain pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom of the unit. Make sure it is clean and is not clogged with debris.

3) Clean the Heat Exchange Core in the early fall.
You may find this task to be the most daunting, but after you do it once or twice you will find that it is not that difficult. Check owner's manual for instructions on cleaning the heat exchange core. To remove the core, there is usually a couple clips that you will need to push aside. Depending on the brand, the access door may need to be removed at the hinges. The core will then need to be carefully but firmly pulled out from the unit. Follow the instructions in the manual for cleaning.

4) Service the Fans once a year.
Do this when you are cleaning the core. You should remove the dirt that has accumulated on the fan blades by gently brushing or vacuuming them. Most new HRVs fans are designed to run continuously without lubrication. Check your manual for complete instructions.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:24 am, edited 12 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 03, 2008 11:24 am 
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Lot grading not done yet ?? Then read this.

by Andy Shaw - March 9th 2010.

Proper lot grading is vital for the long term health of your home. Often, during year end warranty inspections I find lot grading issues that are difficult to repair. Plus, builders often dump gravel between homes before the grading ( swale ) is done properly. These problems contribute to chronic moisture conditions caused by water leakage and dampness through the basement foundation walls. This can also contribute to sump pump failures, sewer backups, ponding on your lot, and foundation settlement issues.

The basics are simple. The lot grade must always slope away from your home without negatively effecting the adjacent home. In between homes, there must be a V-shaped "swale" that directs water away from both homes to the front or to the rear of the home. This V-shaped "swale" must be well defined before the gravel is placed between the homes.

As well, the Ontario Building Code requires that your foundation must extend not less than 150 mm or 5 7/8 inches above finished ground level. This keeps siding, bricks, stucco and other similar materials above grade.

Often during inspections the slope of the lot grading is towards the house, yet only a few inches of foundation is visible above grade. This creates a huge problem because the simple fix, adding soil near the house and sloping the lot away from the house, is now not possible. In cases like this the whole yard should be re-graded to fix the problem.


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All I can say is this -

1) Don't allow your builder to dump gravel between your homes unless there is a well defined V-shaped swale directing water away from both homes towards the front or rear of the lot.

2) Don't allow your builder to lay sod down unless you can see that the lot is graded in a way that will direct water away from your home without negatively effecting other homes.

3) Don't allow your builder to grade too high up on your foundation wall. You must be able to visually see a minimum 5 3/4 inches of your foundation walls.

4) Before your builder fills the window wells with gravel, confirm that the weeping tile ( a black pipe full of gravel ) is not buried in the dirt or clogged with mud.

5) Don't have your A/C systems installed until after the lot grading has been done. This will interfere with the people doing the lot grading and create a low area under and around the A/C unit.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Sat Nov 09, 2013 9:25 am, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 12:14 pm 
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We appreciate the kind comments that our customers make on this forum. For your convenience, a few of them have been re-posted here for your review.

Quote:
Baraa & Alaa Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009

Hi All

Our one year anniversary in our new home is coming up next week. As with everyone, we had some issues and many questions.

We decided to hire Andy from Halton Home Inspection Service. So glad we did. We've been very picky with every little detail but there was so much that we didn't know.

Let's just say if we had to fix everything that Andy pointed out we would have had to pay hundreds if not a couple of thousands. So the cost to inspect paid for itself many times over.

Andy took the time to explain every bit of detail.

Thanks Andy.


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dk_aa Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2009

We hired Andy as well for our home inspection in preparation to do our 30 day warranty claim...

We are really happy that we hired him...this is our first house and we were not sure about several things that we though might be an issue...

Andy took extra time to verify several details and explain very clearly any questions or concerns that we had. He find several MAJOR issues that we did not even realize were wrong like sump pump, garage isolation, attic insulation, cold cellar ventilation, ice on gas meter...and so on...believe me list is long.

Would highly recomend his services.

DK


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Janet Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2009

Andy was Awesome

My husband and I just completed our 30 day inspection today and we too are so glad that we hired Andy to help us. He also was there to help us with our PDI.

He noticed things that my husband and I would have never picked up on, like a shower that wasnt even sealed under the step. Im just glad my husband and I didnt use it before the inspection or we would have had big issues to deal with.

Andy treated our house like it was his own. He took his time and was very complete and thorough. He is very resonably priced and in my opinion worth every penny and more. If anyone has any questions feel free to pm me.

Thanks Andy for your help!


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Ecuador Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009

Id like to take the time to say "thank you" to Andy Shaw. If you are looking for a good knowledgeable inspector please contact Andy. He responded right away to one of my concerns that I had posted a week ago. I had condensation in my dining room. Andy was here the next day and read the temperature of my interior walls. He found some areas that needed more foaming. Sad to say that builders these days are no longer putting as much effort. One of our walls had very little insulation. Andy will take the time to answer any questions that you may have. I have contacted other inspectors and when asking questions I felt rushed. Andy was the only one who took his time to explain in full detail.
Thank you Andy and we will see you in April for our one yr.


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BVM posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009

We had Andy Shaw complete our home inspection for our one-year and were thrilled we did!

Andy found over 30 items that we would never have thought of or found on our own. From electrical to insulation, to roofing and foundation, he really covers all bases.

Also, Andy was very professional and informative. My husband and I are first-time home buyers so our knowledge is quite limited. I wasn't there but my hubby did tell me that Andy really took the time to explain his findings, like what the risks are, why it should be fixed/improved, what to look out for in future, how certain things happen, etc etc etc...

Our neighbours, all on their second and third homes, have book Andy or intend to do so, once they discovered all the things Andy found for us.

We definitely recommend going with an independent home inspector...and recommend Andy Shaw without any hesitation!

Also, as for the "independent" angle...I've heard that the some of the inspectors employed or contracted out by some real estate agencies may be biased or not as thorough. I can't really explain more as I don't have much knowledge on this, but it's something to consider, keep in mind, or look into when searching for an inspector.



Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Mon Mar 23, 2009 6:45 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:20 pm 
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The Carbon Monoxide Sick Houses. Many houses in fact, all along this street.

By Andy Shaw - Feb 22 / 2010


Some builders of new homes wonder actively encourage buyers to not get a good independent inspection of your new home. They say the house is looked at many times during the construction process, so what could be wrong they say. But think about it. If a builder has nothing to hide then what's their problem ??

The fact is, that many things are wrong, code violations abound, and many things are not installed properly or are completely missing.

The photo below is of a HRV Tandem Vent at the back of a home. This dual HRV vent is a single unit that sucks air in from the bottom to the HRV, and the exhaust air from the house goes out the top of the vent. Note that it's directly above a gutter and right beside the white exhaust pipe vent from the homes gas water heater. As well, the intake at the bottom of this vent is missing a screen that is required by code to prevent vermin and insects from entering the duct of this ventilation system.
Imagine a nest of mice and their waste inside the intake vent to this ventilation system. This would not be a good situation at all.

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In this case the bottom of the vent is too close to the gutter which is considered a "permanent horizontal surface". An 18 inch clearance is the Ontario Building Code minimum requirement for this height rule.

And, the most serious issue, is that this HRV Vent is required by the Gas Code to be 6 feet away from the white exhaust pipe beside the HRV Vent.


In conclusion, this HRV Vent installation in the photo violates 2 Ontario Building Codes and one Gas Code. One of the violations is a health safety matter.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service
http://www.haltoninspections.com

UPDATE After this post was made, this issue was repaired. However, the repair was not done promptly.

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Last edited by Halton Home Inspector on Sun Feb 28, 2016 9:16 am, edited 12 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:22 am 
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We just had an inspection done by Andy.. he was very detailed and precise.
We were very pleased with our inspection.

Thanks again Andy


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 6:43 am 
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Thank you Sean C. and Jen for your comments.

Andy Shaw
Halton Home Inspection Service

905 876 4761

http://www.haltoninspections.com

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:47 pm 
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Andy did an excellent job at out home. He spent extra time and took care of additional items! We would recommend him.
Atiq


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 6:25 pm 
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Thanks Atiq

Here is a link to the type of sump back up pump that we were talking about. It requires no electricity or battery. All you need is normal water pressure and it will function.

http://www.costco.ca/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=10292153&whse=bcca&topnav=&browse=&lang=en-CA

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