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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:58 am 
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Thanks Strikerdog. I just checked my ducts and all my cold air return ducts have no tape on them, but all my other ducts do. So I guess I'll go buy some tape and see if that makes a difference.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 3:52 pm 
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Great thread ... and thanks very much Mr. Shaw for the information.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:31 pm 
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Today I foil taped all my cold air return ducts. Before I taped I did a paper test on all my return air ducts. The one on the ground floor had zero suction, the one on the main floor had zero suction. And I have no return air duct on the 3rd floor (is this normal?)

After I taped there was still zero suction. WTF?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:58 pm 
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leafyme wrote:
Today I foil taped all my cold air return ducts. Before I taped I did a paper test on all my return air ducts. The one on the ground floor had zero suction, the one on the main floor had zero suction. And I have no return air duct on the 3rd floor (is this normal?)

After I taped there was still zero suction. WTF?


Silly question... Was the system running when you tested it? just the HRV, or both fan and HRV

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:38 am 
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Yup, it was running.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:55 am 
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leafyme Posted:

Today I foil taped all my cold air return ducts. Before I taped I did a paper test on all my return air ducts. The one on the ground floor had zero suction, the one on the main floor had zero suction. And I have no return air duct on the 3rd floor (is this normal?)


Hi Leafy

No, is the answer.

You should have a return on the third floor, and, provided the fan is running, there should be suction at the returns.

I don't know how old your home is, but when is the last time you changed the filter in your furnace?

If you neglect this, then the filter will eventually get completely clogged and the fan will not be able to pull air into the furnace through the returns. As well, the fan motor will soon break.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 11:45 am 
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Halton Home Inspector wrote:
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Quote:
leafyme Posted:

Today I foil taped all my cold air return ducts. Before I taped I did a paper test on all my return air ducts. The one on the ground floor had zero suction, the one on the main floor had zero suction. And I have no return air duct on the 3rd floor (is this normal?)


Hi Leafy

No, is the answer.

You should have a return on the third floor, and, provided the fan is running, there should be suction at the returns.

I don't know how old your home is, but when is the last time you changed the filter in your furnace?

If you neglect this, then the filter will eventually get completely clogged and the fan will not be able to pull air into the furnace through the returns. As well, the fan motor will soon break.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com



Our place is just over 2 years old (we bought it resale in July). I changed the filter about 3 weeks ago. There is some sort of vent on the upper floor but it's near the ceiling on the wall in the hallway, I assume it's not cold air return because it's not near the floor.

I guess I should call a furnace guy to look at this.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 12:49 pm 
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leafyme Posted:

Our place is just over 2 years old (we bought it resale in July). I changed the filter about 3 weeks ago. There is some sort of vent on the upper floor but it's near the ceiling on the wall in the hallway, I assume it's not cold air return because it's not near the floor.


Leafy,

The top floor Return is high so that it can pull the warmest air in the home back to the A/C system in the summer.

Just as the lowest level Return should be low to the floor to take the coldest air in the home back to the furnace in the winter.

The location of your top floor Return is therefore OK.

But, if the Return is not drawing in air, then that is not OK.

Checking the performance / locations of Returns and Registers is standard practice during any of our Home Inspections including 30 day One Year Warranty home inspections, and during PDI's if possible.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:03 pm 
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Thanks for the info Andy.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:12 pm 
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Okay, in my Woodbine, I currently have a 23 degree middle floor, and the den is at 16.5 degrees. The furnace hasn't been on a few hours - the temp. has been holding steady.

I'm going to try and turn the furnace fan on to see if it warms up the den. I'm annoyed the den is so cold. I have to bundle up just to sit down there.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 8:19 pm 
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I feel bad for all you owners having to tolerate this in the three storey townhomes. Mattamy should definitely be rectifying this situation.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:28 pm 
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Okay, I closed all the middle floor registers and just turned on the fan ... the furnace hasn't been on in hours. Here's my results so far:

I went from 16.5 to 21.4 ... still climbing.

I'm just concerned about how much power I would be using if I ran the fan all the time. Of course I would only keep it on when it's needed and have it on AUTO otherwise.

The change is quite dramatic ... I'm blown away how warm it is down there ... it's almost 6 degrees warmer now.

Turning on the fan is really all I did. Most of my registers were closed on floors 2 and 3 already because I didn't need them to open.

(I'd like to test this on an extremely frigid day)

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Last edited by 2009Miltonite on Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:05 pm 
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16.5 to 23 ... furnace hasn't been all.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:30 pm 
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We are an original owner of a Springridge, and yep it's always been cold, but I guess I just get use to it. We have a den/foyer, but dont really use it other then the foyer area and laundry.
Our neighbours have a den in theirs and they just use a plug in heater and spend many hours down there.

Mind you I should probably do a paper test since we plan on selling later this year.

Now whats this about the central vac pipe in the garage? I dont think ours is sealed either, but we dont park in the garage?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2009 1:28 pm 
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theresa Posted:

Now whats this about the central vac pipe in the garage? I dont think ours is sealed either, but we dont park in the garage?


Hi theresa,

It does not matter that you don't park in your garage. One day someone will. When a garage is attached to the home it needs to be 100% sealed from the house. There can be no holes, gaps or cracks that would allow air from the garage to enter your home.

Carbon monoxide can even be sucked into a home through an open garage door from a vehicle that is running in the driveway.

Water heaters, furnaces, bathroom and kitchen fans in a home, creates negative air pressure compared to the outside. There air is often being sucked into the home.

Below is a post I made in Feb.

Quote:
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Bump Article #4

Is the garage in your new home Gas-Proofed from the house?


Written Tuesday Feb. 3rd 2009.

Yesterday, carbon monoxide killed a Markham man and put his wife in hospital after the CO seeped into the home after their car was accidentally left running in the garage.

The couple left the car running with the garage door open while they were getting ready to go out. They changed their minds and decided not to leave. Using a remote opener, they shut the garage door, forgetting that the car was running.

Whatever the story, this same problem repeats every year, often with tragic results. While your CO detector is good defence, it's best to find and repair the cause of the problem.

This is the issue -

When a garage is attached to a home, it must be 100% gas-proofed from the home.

This means that there can be no holes, gaps, cracks, or any other openings in any part of the garage walls or ceilings that are attached to the home. The Man-door must properly self close and be of exterior grade and weather stripped. Trim around this door must be 100% sealed. The hose bib, vacuum pipes, etc., must all be caulked. Unused vacuum pipes must be sealed with red Tuck Tape.

It is absolutely necessary to confirm that your garage is 100% gas-proofed from your home. Don't depend on your builder to do this properly as most garages that we inspect, have gas-proofing deficiencies.

Homes have negative air pressure. Even more so when exhaust fans are running in bathrooms and kitchens. If the garage is not gas-proofed, then air in the garage WILL get sucked into the home.

This is what you need to look for in your new home garage - but before you start looking, consider this question. Will a bucket, with a pin hole, hold water?

1) Is the vacuum pipe and hose bib in the garage caulked where it goes through the wall?

2) If not in use, is the vacuum pipe in the garage sealed with red Tuck Tape? NOT Duct Tape or green painters tape.

3) Are there any cracks or holes in the drywall, or loose drywall tape?

4) Carefully inspect all around the Man Door trim. Is it completely sealed? Use a hand mirror to look at the top and bottom trim for any gaps or holes. There are often large gaps on the underside of the Man Door threshold.

5) Does the closer on the Man Door work? Does it close the door every time? Does it only close the Man Door when the garage door is open? If the Man Door closer does not completely close and seal that door, then it needs to be fixed.

6) Carefully inspect all drywall. In areas that are not visible, use your hand mirror and look at the underside of areas the protrude into the garage. There should be no gaps, cracks, or holes.

Pay attention to the walls and ceiling areas that are attached to the home. The interior walls of the garage that face the exterior of the home are not generally a concern.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com


Because this is considered a Health & Safety issue, it is covered by Tarion for 2 years, but it's best to correct these issues ASAP.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761

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For Home Inspection services call Andy Shaw at Halton Home Inspection Service. 905 876 4761


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