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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:46 am 
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Greenjp wrote:
Robert put down hardwood in our dinning room last week....excellent job. All the great stuff that's being said here about "patrob" it's ALL TRUE. :D Top notch.

Thanks for the feedback :) Glad he was able to help :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 4:55 pm 
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Hi patrob,

I'm installing an engineered hardwood (1/2" thick by 5" wide) with crown staples. Currently, there is a cork underlayment (Eco Cork Foam from Home Depot) from our previous laminate installation. Just wondering if the underlayment would be suitable for the engineered hardwood, or if I'm better off getting the waxed paper underlayment used for solid woods.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 7:45 pm 
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I need to add a bannister to one small area at the top of a landing. Any suggestions on who to contact about that?


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:53 pm 
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Junta wrote:
Hi patrob,

I'm installing an engineered hardwood (1/2" thick by 5" wide) with crown staples. Currently, there is a cork underlayment (Eco Cork Foam from Home Depot) from our previous laminate installation. Just wondering if the underlayment would be suitable for the engineered hardwood, or if I'm better off getting the waxed paper underlayment used for solid woods.

Thanks!

As long as the cork does not interfere with the installation, meaning next board goes in freely, you can install over cork. Usually wax paper is used for nail down application. What's your nosing height?

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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:55 pm 
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RMJ wrote:
I need to add a bannister to one small area at the top of a landing. Any suggestions on who to contact about that?

You can contact any railing company.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 8:57 am 
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Any specific suggestions for a Milton area company?


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:20 am 
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patrob wrote:
As long as the cork does not interfere with the installation, meaning next board goes in freely, you can install over cork. Usually wax paper is used for nail down application. What's your nosing height?


The work area is adjacent to our kitchen tiles (~1/2" thick) and the stair floor nose (~3/4"), and the cork underlayment is 1/8". I guess the wax paper is the way to go to minimize the use of transition pieces.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 6:23 pm 
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RMJ wrote:
Any specific suggestions for a Milton area company?

Not familiar with any places in Milton but there are a few places in Mississauga. Search under stairs & railings.

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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2012 6:24 pm 
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Junta wrote:
patrob wrote:
As long as the cork does not interfere with the installation, meaning next board goes in freely, you can install over cork. Usually wax paper is used for nail down application. What's your nosing height?


The work area is adjacent to our kitchen tiles (~1/2" thick) and the stair floor nose (~3/4"), and the cork underlayment is 1/8". I guess the wax paper is the way to go to minimize the use of transition pieces.

If your tiles are 1/2" and your wood is 1/2", then forget about the cork. But your nosing is 3/4" so that part will have to be raised.

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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 1:00 pm 
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Sounds good, thanks. Just wondering if I could pick your brain regarding my floor layout. I've attached a picture of the work area. Ignore the sq. ft. numbers; they're wrong.

For the dining room, I'd like to lay the boards so that the length of them run horizontally. For the hallway area, I'd like to lay the boards vertically. The area in question is where the hallway turns into the dining room.

I can't come up with a nice or seamless way for vertical boards to transition into horizontal ones. I tried playing around with the idea of adding a border to separate the two areas, but it didn't look right since the border would be running in the same direction (vertical) as the hallway.

The reason why I want to run the boards horizontally in the dining room is because the joists beneath run vertically, and the general practice seems to be to lay the boards perpendicular to the joists. The subfloor is 7/8" OSB, and I believe the joists are spaced 32" apart.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2012 8:22 pm 
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Junta wrote:
Sounds good, thanks. Just wondering if I could pick your brain regarding my floor layout. I've attached a picture of the work area. Ignore the sq. ft. numbers; they're wrong.

For the dining room, I'd like to lay the boards so that the length of them run horizontally. For the hallway area, I'd like to lay the boards vertically. The area in question is where the hallway turns into the dining room.

I can't come up with a nice or seamless way for vertical boards to transition into horizontal ones. I tried playing around with the idea of adding a border to separate the two areas, but it didn't look right since the border would be running in the same direction (vertical) as the hallway.

The reason why I want to run the boards horizontally in the dining room is because the joists beneath run vertically, and the general practice seems to be to lay the boards perpendicular to the joists. The subfloor is 7/8" OSB, and I believe the joists are spaced 32" apart.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Today we were working in the same model :mrgreen:, I can post some pics of the finished job tomorrow so you can see how it looks. But hallway will be done in the same direction as the dining room. You said it, floor should be installed across the joists! To change floor directions, you finish the hallway first in line with the board along tile and join everything tongue & groove. So you have a straight line across the whole dining room and then your dining room boards will be perpendicular to the hallway and single board along tile. It's basic floor installation.

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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2012 7:37 am 
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patrob wrote:
Junta wrote:
Sounds good, thanks. Just wondering if I could pick your brain regarding my floor layout. I've attached a picture of the work area. Ignore the sq. ft. numbers; they're wrong.

For the dining room, I'd like to lay the boards so that the length of them run horizontally. For the hallway area, I'd like to lay the boards vertically. The area in question is where the hallway turns into the dining room.

I can't come up with a nice or seamless way for vertical boards to transition into horizontal ones. I tried playing around with the idea of adding a border to separate the two areas, but it didn't look right since the border would be running in the same direction (vertical) as the hallway.

The reason why I want to run the boards horizontally in the dining room is because the joists beneath run vertically, and the general practice seems to be to lay the boards perpendicular to the joists. The subfloor is 7/8" OSB, and I believe the joists are spaced 32" apart.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Today we were working in the same model :mrgreen:, I can post some pics of the finished job tomorrow so you can see how it looks. But hallway will be done in the same direction as the dining room. You said it, floor should be installed across the joists! To change floor directions, you finish the hallway first in line with the board along tile and join everything tongue & groove. So you have a straight line across the whole dining room and then your dining room boards will be perpendicular to the hallway and single board along tile. It's basic floor installation.


Thanks for the input. After much contemplating, we've decided to go with a diagonal install. Considering that the joists run vertical, the diagonal install at least runs partially perpendicular to them while still nearly running the length of both rooms. Two birds with one stone I guess. I'd still like to see those pictures as well. :)


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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 8:27 am 
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Junta wrote:

Thanks for the input. After much contemplating, we've decided to go with a diagonal install. Considering that the joists run vertical, the diagonal install at least runs partially perpendicular to them while still nearly running the length of both rooms. Two birds with one stone I guess. I'd still like to see those pictures as well. :)

Hi:

Sorry for the delay in posting those pics :mrgreen: Might be too late for you if you already installed it but here they are anyways.

Image
Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2012 11:11 pm 
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When putting a rug on top of hardwood, is there a special underpad that needs to go under the rug? I heard some materials (whether it's the rug directly or the underpad) can damage some hardwood floors.

We're getting Mirage Red Oak engineered hardwood (Vienna), is it ok to use a steam mop? I know in another post you said to use a mop and spray, what kind of spray? Thanks :)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:52 pm 
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edge wrote:
Any recommendation on retailer/installer in the northern Virginia (USA) area?

Also, was wondering if it typically looks OK to have a maple floor with oak staircase - does it look OK to stain the staircase the same as the floor despite it being a different species?

Sorry for late reply, just got back from vacation :)

I can't help you with recommendations for Virginia :mrgreen:
Yes it's ok to have diff. species of floor & stairs & it's supposed to be stained the same or very close in colour.

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