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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:40 pm 
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Is it acceptable to have ducts that go around beams drop down so that they are 6' from the ground? See attached image. It's right in the walkway to the cold cellar, and another 10' away, which is where the main hallway in basement should be located.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:00 pm 
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I have the same question too. Is it ok to change to a smaller one? THanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 9:03 pm 
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I close on this home in a few weeks, trying to get the builder to change it.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:13 am 
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The builder can't leave that the way it is because it is a head hazard, however it's not likely that they will improve the duct. Instead they will likely install a crappy little 2 x 4 wall under it. Most of the time homeowners remove the temporary wall.

When the basement is finished, you will need to bring in a competent HVAC company to either relocate or install a flatter wider plenum.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 7:29 am 
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Thanks. It's too bad they won't just do it right the first time.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:20 am 
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BTW,

I can see you have a cold room door.

Here is your tip - of - the - day from Andy.

If it's a Mattamy home then make sure it is properly weatherstripped. One of Mattamy's PDI dweebs has told at least one new home buyer that cold room doors do not require weatherstrip and they do. To check the effectiveness of the weatherstrip, go into the cold room and close the door. The closed door should slightly compress the weatherstrip all around the door. Often the door does not even touch the weatherstrip and this will allow cold air into the basement. Have them fix it.

As well, most Mattamy cold room lights are too low and the electrical code requires that a cage be installed to protect the bulb. So, if the light in the cold room is under 82.7 inches then insist that a cage be installed.

Note that excusses like "the home has passed" or "we do this all the time" are just hogwash.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 9:47 am 
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Thanks Andy. Is there a section in the Building Code that I can quote if they give me a hard time (re weatherstrip and the bulb cage)?


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:47 am 
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Sandeep wrote:
Thanks Andy. Is there a section in the Building Code that I can quote if they give me a hard time (re weatherstrip and the bulb cage)?


The weatherstrip missing on this door is not common so I will provide that code if you require it.

The low light fixture in cold rooms is a chronic problem so here is the rule.

Electrical Code Rule 30-314 - Minimum Ceiling Height of low Light Fixtures.
(1) Where a rigid light fixture ( bulb ) is located at a height of less than 2.1 meters / 82.7 inches above the floor and is readily accessible the light shall be protected from mechanical injury by a guard / cage or by location. (2) A short flexible drop light shall be permitted to be used in place of the rigid light.


The only way a low light fixture is NOT "readily accessible" is when it is tucked up high between two joists. This will not be an option in a cold room and besides, that would not be preferred because that location, up high between the joists, blocks light to the area.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:57 am 
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Thanks Andy!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2012 11:48 am 
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Andy,

On the point of cold cellars; what do you recommend be done to a cold cellar to better regulate the temperature.

Ours gets quite cold in the winter and too warm in the summer.

Do you insulate on just the house side, just the outer walls or all walls? Our has two outside vents, one at each end and both vents are open.

I've tried a few approaches and nothing seems to work well.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 2:44 pm 
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gumby wrote:
Andy,

On the point of cold cellars; what do you recommend be done to a cold cellar to better regulate the temperature.

Ours gets quite cold in the winter and too warm in the summer.

Do you insulate on just the house side, just the outer walls or all walls? Our has two outside vents, one at each end and both vents are open.

I've tried a few approaches and nothing seems to work well.

Thanks.


Sorry for delayed response gumby,

There is no one answer for solutions to cold rooms temperature problems. Many of them are too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. If the cold room is hot during the summer then I would suggest you block the vents to the outside and keep the cold room door OPEN.

Technically, cold rooms should have an exterior grade door and the house walls facing the cold room should be fully insulated. The gap around the cold room door frame should also be insulated. This is usually done properly during new home construction.

It can be a challenge to insulate inside a cold room because foam board is the easiest solution but it needs to be covered with drywall.

South and west facing cold rooms are often to warm in the summer and the exposed exterior cold room foundation walls would absorb heat and heat up the cold room.

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