HawthorneVillager.com

Buying a new home should be one of life's most gratifying experiences.
We can help make that happen.

For owners of new homes -

We perform independent, professional and thorough Tarion New Home Warranty Inspections. Our services for new homes include 30 Day, One Year Warranty Inspections, or a package price for both inspections. Our inspections often reveal a substantial list of deficiencies that your builder is required to repair, provide or improve. We will inform you on why specific issues are a problem and what your builder should do to remedy the situation. We offer unlimited phone support and will stand by you for no charge for our local clients if conciliation between you, Tarion, and your builder is required. You will also learn how to maintain your new home.

Our specialized training, services, ethics, and experience will ensure you receive the very best value and benefit from your Home Inspection. We will provide you high quality information, exceptional service, our Home Reference Book reporting system, and all Tarion Warranty Forms.

For Buyers of resale homes -

Most Home Inspection companies market their services to Realtors because they depend on Realtors for referrals. We consider this practice to be a conflict of interest that works against the best interest of home buyers. Unfortunately, many buyers of resale homes call the home inspection company that their Realtor has suggested. This can be a huge mistake. Halton Home Inspection Service is one of the few inspection companies in Canada that does not market to, or rely on Realtors for referrals. Protect your investment, call us for your thorough and independent Home Inspection.

Renowned throughout southern Ontario for excellence and quality, Halton Home Inspection Service performs a wide range of services that include-

- New Home 30 Day and One Year Home Inspections.
Call for package pricing.

We also perform,
- Pre - Purchase Home Inspections
- Pre - Listing Home Inspections
- Individual Consultations.


Our Inspector, Andy Shaw, lives in Milton, Ontario, and is a Certified Home Inspector and a trained Defect Recognition Specialist. He has been specifically trained by The Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing to identify Building Envelope Issues. He is also a Member of The Independent Home Inspectors of North America where our primary mission is to promote consumer protection for home buyers through education.

YOU are the most important person in the Home Inspection process and we encourage you to join Andy during your home inspection and feel free to ask questions.

Or, Call us direct at 905 876 4761

FOR VALUABLE INFORMATION AND TIPS VISIT OUR WEBSITE

http://www.haltoninspections.com

and, for local reviews and other information Google - Andy Shaw Home Inspector.



The power of technology helps us help you.

Our cutting edge technology gives us, and you, the power to see what no one else can see.



Halton Home Inspection Service is one of the few inspection services in Canada that has invested in expensive and advanced Forward Looking Infra Red, (FLIR) technology to enhance our Home Inspection Services and to assist our clients.

We now use our FLIR b50 Infra-Red Camera, pictured above, to locate hidden defects, leaks, water damage, missing insulation*, electrical defects, and other potential problems in your home.

When problems like moisture are found with the b50 camera, we will use it to take an Infra-Red image and a regular digital image of the area where the problem is. We will then produce, and e-mail you a PDF FLIR Report showing both images with a description of the issue. This will give you solid documentation to provide to your builder.

Please note that during our Warranty Inspections we currently scan 1st floor ceilings for water damage and moisture from 2nd floor bathrooms that is normally invisible to us. We will scan electrical panels if we suspect a problem and check for insulation issues when possible* in areas where we suspect problems.

* Missing insulation can only be detected when the outdoor temperature is well below the indoor temperature.

Everything is not always as it seems.

Below are some images showing moisture from leaks, overheated electrical breakers, and missing insulation in homes. All of these defects are only visible using Infra-Red technology.









For additional information, or to book your inspection, please feel free to call - Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761

http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Bump Article #1

New Home ?? Foundation Crack ?? Why not do a "Water Test".

Your new home has a foundation water leakage warranty for 2 years, yet your foundation warranty for cracks under 6mm wide (1/4 inch) is only covered for one year. Even hairline cracks in foundations can leak. If your new home is under 2 years old, and you are aware of a small crack or two, then why not protect yourself and do your own Water Test. If it results in a leak, then your builder will likely be required to fix the crack for you, even if it is to small for the one year coverage. Doing your own Water Test will force your house to reveal foundation problems while you still have warranty coverage.

The 3 paragraphs below are from the Tarion Construction Performance Guidelines Appendix 5. It is vital if you are going to do your own Water Test that you follow the guidelines exactly. Your builder WILL conduct his own test to confirm your results before he spends any money repairing the crack.

How to Conduct a Water Test

A water test shall be performed to confirm water leaks, both above and below grade. Above grade the intent is to simulate an average, wind-driven rainfall but should never be done using full pressure in a single-stream or pressure-altering device such as a pressure washer. This can force water through building assemblies and flashings not intended for high-volume or high-pressure water saturation. Below grade the intent is to simulate natural water flow around a foundation caused by rain or snow melting where the water may inadvertently be directed towards the foundation wall. Water penetration is considered to be bulk water coming into the basement or accumulating near the point of entry, or dampness on the wall appearing as a result of the test, but excludes dampness caused by condensation or other causes.

Above Grade Test

Use a standard garden hose and sprayer attachment. The sprayer attachment should be set on shower or other similar dispersal pattern. Spray the area to be tested for not more than 10 minutes from a minimum distance of 2 m. Have another person checking inside for the point of origin and the length of time it takes for water to appear. Areas to be investigated should be kept dry prior to the test.

Below Grade Test

Use a standard garden hose with no attachments. The hose bib should be set at about half flow to simulate melting snow or rainfall. The water from the hose is to be directed along the face of the foundation to allow the water to run parallel to the wall, at grade, finding its own way down the
exterior of the wall to the perimeter foundation drains. Run the water for not more than 20 minutes checking periodically for water penetration. Identify the location and the point of entry of any water (crack, tie rod, snap tie, honeycombing) and the length of time it takes for water to appear.

Andy's Foundation Crack Tips.

1) if you are aware of a crack in your foundation you can monitor it for movement by taking a date-stamped close up photo of the crack. Then, in the future, if you decide to sell the home, you can show the buyer your photos and likely dispel any concerns they may have with regards to the crack.

2) Watch for Horizontal cracks. While vertical cracks are quite common, especially at the corners below basement windows. Most vertical foundation cracks do not warrant serious structural concern, but horizontal cracks are a problem! If you do find a horozontal crack then you need to call a structural engineer for advice.

3) Before you finish the basement in your new home, always repair all cracks professionally. You never know when a basement wall may leak and you certainly don’t want your new basement interior ruined or damaged by water. Often basement cracks are repaired from the inside with epoxy fill injection. Many companies offer lifetime warranties that are transferable to new owners.

4) Look for exposed aggregate / stones, also known as honeycombing on your foundation walls. The walls of your foundation should be smooth with no voids or exposed stones. This is a weakness in the wall with respect to both water penetration and strength. Exposed aggregate/stones should be covered/parged over with quality adhesive cement. Any honeycombing issues should be reported on your one year warranty report.

If some readers have conducted a Water Test, please let us know your results on this forum post.

Andy Shaw
Certified Home Inspector - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service
http://www.haltoninspections.com

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For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Bump Article #2 - What You Get.

Many Home Inspection companies charge similar fees for their services. The real difference then, is the thoroughness of the inspection and the quality of the information that is provided for the fee that is paid for the service.

Typically, home inspection reports include a few pages of information and a simple book on home maintenance that is often full of irrelevant information like stove repair.



Our comprehensive Home Reference Book Reporting system is light years ahead of typical reporting systems. Renowned for excellence and quality as the Encyclopaedia of Homes, our Home Reference Book reporting system is a home management tool for Owners that is sophisticated, simple to use, and will provide you with valuable and useful information for years to come.

Our 3 ring format, 16 chapter, Home Reference Book is tested and refined, easy to read, and includes - all necessary Tarion Warranty forms, 400 pages of home reference information, 170 detailed illustrations, improvement recommendations, a home maintenance schedule, life cycles and costs information, and a creative filling system for important home related documents.

The Home Reference Book Reporting system is a $95.value and is included FREE with all of our Home Inspection services.

For information please call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

For pricing and other information visit us at
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Product Review - RIALCO Flood Alarm.

Every once in a while a great product comes along, that few people know about, and that every home should have. The RIALCO Flood Alarm is one of them.

As you know, all the new homes built in Milton require a Sump Pit and Pump. Some sumps run on a regular basis while others rarely come on. The problem is, that one day, your sump pump will likely fail, or, maybe the sump pump float will just get blocked in the pit and fail to activate the pump. Regardless of why a sump pump could fail, why not prepare in advance, and protect your property?

The RIALCO Flood Alarm's flexible design allows you to place or install it where ever you want to monitor for water, leaks, or overflows. When the Flood Alarm detects water, a loud siren is sounded to alert you. It operates on a 9 volt battery that is provided.

The Rialco Flood Alarm was created in the 1980's after a Canadian inventor flooded several floors of his downtown condominium by leaving his bathtub running to answer a phone call. Since that incident, thousands of people world-wide have benefited from the monitoring and early detection capabilities of the Rialco Flood Alarm.

Established in 2001, to distribute the product worldwide, Rialco Inc. is a family operated Canadian company dedicated to manufacturing this high quality and durable alarm.

Personally, I don't have a sump in my home, but for years I have relied on Rialco Flood Alarms. One monitors the condensate pump beside my furnace, and the other monitors a vulnerable area in my basement where water can get in after snow melts and heavy rain.

To install the RIALCO Flood Alarm at your sump, simply install the 9 volt battery and insert the moisture detection probe, about 10 inches, into the pit through one of the holes in the sump pit cover. The Alarm will simply sit above the cover, ready to alert you should the water in the pit get higher than it should.

This fantastic product is available at Home Hardware Stores for under $20.

Milton Home Hardware Building Centre
385 Steeles Ave. East. Milton, Ontario.
Phone 905 878 9222

RIALCO Inc. website - http://www.rialco.com/



Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com


Product Review - Leviton Bathroom Fan Timers



Why not consider Leviton Electronic Timers for your bathroom fans ??



I always thought that one of the best features that people can add to a home is to install* timer switches to control bathroom and powder room fans. After all, the current system, with a simple switch to turn the fan ON or OFF is totally inadequate and not very helpful.

After a shower, your fan should run for at least 30 minutes, some think one hour is needed to remove all humidity. And, wouldn't it be nice if that powder room fan could be set to stay on for 15 minutes or so?

Leviton Timers are a simple solution and they add contemporary styling to any home. Built to the highest performance standards these Decora Electronic Timers provide a long lasting trouble free service life. These units come in various configurations to suit different applications. For example - There is no need to run a Powder Room fan for a full hour. So consider the model with 2, 5, 10, 15 minute presets plus an OFF button. These timers are ideal for other applications including controlling heat lamps, foyer and outdoor lights, and /or whirlpool tubs. Small red LED's beside the timer buttons indicate elapsed time.

* These timers replace your existing wall switch, but because they are actually electronic devices, they are quite a bit larger than an ordinary switch. This makes them a fairly tight fit into the electrical box. Therefore, I would suggest an electrician install these for you. These timers are not intended to be used in 3 way switching application. If your home does not have an HRV, you will likely have a three way fan switch beside your thermostat that will turn your main bath fan ON or OFF. If that is the case then you will only be able to install these timers for your Powder Room and Master Bath fans

BTW, I have these timers on all my exhaust fans and I must say, I think they also have a cool-factor.

These Timers are available at hardware stores. About $30. each.
Common configurations that are generally available are -

2, 5, 10, 15, OFF. Or
5, 10, 15, 30, OFF. Or
10, 20, 30, 60, OFF.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Is the garage in your new home Gas-Proofed from the house?

By Andy Shaw - Tuesday Feb. 3rd 2009.

Yesterday, carbon monoxide killed a Markham man and put his wife in hospital after the CO seeped into the home after their car was accidentally left running in the garage.

The couple left the car running with the garage door open while they were getting ready to go out. They changed their minds and decided not to leave. Using a remote opener, they shut the garage door, forgetting that the car was running.

Whatever the story, this same problem repeats every year, often with tragic results. While your CO detector is good defence, it's best to find and repair the cause of the problem.

This is the issue -

When a garage is attached to a home, it must be 100% gas-proofed from the home.

This means that there can be no holes, gaps, cracks, or any other openings in any part of the garage walls or ceilings that are attached to the home. The Man-door must properly self close and be of exterior grade and weather stripped. Trim around this door must be 100% sealed. The hose bib, vacuum pipes, etc., must all be caulked. Unused vacuum pipes must be sealed with red Tuck Tape.

It is absolutely necessary to confirm that your garage is 100% gas-proofed from your home. Don't depend on your builder to do this properly as most garages that we inspect, have gas-proofing deficiencies.

Homes have negative air pressure. Even more so when exhaust fans are running in bathrooms and kitchens. If the garage is not gas-proofed, then air in the garage WILL get sucked into the home.

This is what you need to look for in your new home garage - but before you start looking, consider this question. Will a bucket, with a pin hole, hold water?

1) Is the vacuum pipe and hose bib in the garage caulked where it goes through the wall?

2) If not in use, is the vacuum pipe in the garage sealed with red Tuck Tape? NOT Duct Tape, or green painters tape.

3) Are there any cracks or holes in the drywall, or loose drywall tape?

4) Carefully inspect all around the Man Door trim. Is it completely sealed? Use a hand mirror to look at the top and bottom trim for any gaps or holes.

5) Does the closer on the Man Door work? Does it close the door every time? Does it only close the Man Door when the garage door is open? If the Man Door closer does not completely close and seal that door, then it needs to be fixed.

6) Carefully inspect all drywall. In areas that are not visible, use your hand mirror and look at the underside of these areas. There should be no gaps, cracks, or holes.

Pay attention to the walls and ceiling areas that are attached to the home. The interior walls of the garage that face the exterior of the home are not generally a concern.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com



Lot grading not done yet ?? Then read this.

by Andy Shaw - March 9th 2010.

Proper lot grading is vital for the long term health of your home. Often, during year end warranty inspections I find lot grading issues that are difficult to repair. Plus, builders often dump gravel between homes before the grading ( swale ) is done properly. These problems contribute to chronic moisture conditions caused by water leakage and dampness through the basement foundation walls. This can also contribute to sump pump failures, sewer backups, ponding on your lot, and foundation settlement issues.

The basics are simple. The lot grade must always slope away from your home without negatively effecting the adjacent home. In between homes, there must be a V-shaped "swale" that directs water away from both homes to the front or to the rear of the home. This V-shaped "swale" must be well defined before the gravel is placed between the homes.

As well, the Ontario Building Code requires that your foundation must extend not less than 150 mm or 5 7/8 inches above finished ground level. This keeps siding, bricks, stucco and other similar materials above grade.

Often during inspections the slope of the lot grading is towards the house, yet only a few inches of foundation is visible above grade. This creates a huge problem because the simple fix, adding soil near the house and sloping the lot away from the house, is now not possible. In cases like this the whole yard should be re-graded to fix the problem.




All I can say is this -

1) Don't allow your builder to dump gravel between your homes unless there is a well defined V-shaped swale directing water away from both homes towards the front or rear of the lot.

2) Don't allow your builder to lay sod down unless you can see that the lot is graded in a way that will direct water away from your home without negatively effecting other homes.

3) Don't allow your builder to grade too high up on your foundation wall. You must be able to visually see a minimum 5 3/4 inches of your foundation walls.

4) Before your builder fills the window wells with gravel, confirm that the weeping tile ( a black pipe full of gravel ) is not buried in the dirt or clogged with mud.

5) Don't have your A/C systems installed until after the lot grading has been done. This will interfere with the people doing the lot grading and create a low area under and around the A/C unit.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Bump Article #5

Should I take a Home Inspector to the PDI?

This is a great question. Even most Home Inspectors get this one wrong.

Here is our answer.

You could take a Home Inspector with you for your PDI, but NOT for a Home Inspection.

A home inspection is a specific process. It is a top to bottom complete examination of the home and the functional equipment in the home. In order to benefit from your Home Inspection, you will need to live in, and use the house for at least 25 days.

The purpose of the PDI is for your builder to show you your new home in it's completed state, and to make note of scratches, dents, chips, or any other damage to counters, floors, doors, walls, cabinets, cupboards, mirrors, toilets, tubs, windows, glass, etc. It IS NOT the time to do a complete home inspection as your builder, who owns the home during the PDI is not required to allow a Home Inspector to crawl around the roof, open the furnace or electrical panels, examine the attic etc. This can and should be done later.

The Builders Rep is responsible for, and controls the PDI process. It usually takes one hour for every 1000 square feet.

Note everything that is incomplete, damaged, and items that are in good condition. Note areas that are dirty as this dirt, IE- on a hardwood floor, will make it impossible to do a thorough inspection of that floor.

Before your PDI, review the Construction Performance Guidelines on Tarion's website for all issues that will not be covered after the PDI if not detected during the PDI.

Be very diligent and carefully examine all hardwood floors and stairways. Not just for damage like chips and scratches, but also for cupping or crowning. This is very important.

If after you move in, you notice a dent on your front door and a big scratch on the hardwood floor, then you have a problem. Even if this damage was not done while moving in, it is still, at this point, not covered by the builder and they will not be required to fix it unless you can prove that the damage was there during the PDI.

During the PDI, take your list of upgrades, a digital camera, and a notepad. DO NOT take children. The PDI is not the time to show friends or family the home.

Our company, Halton Home Inspection Service has developed our own unique service called PDI Assist. For information on this service visit our website at http://www.haltoninspections.com or call us by phone.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761



Bump Article #6

July 24, 2010.

Hardwood floors, "cupping", and the PDI



Cupping refers to boards on which the edges are higher than the center of the board across it's width. Cupping usually occurs when the boards have been exposed to moisture that causes the edges to swell. This moisture can be from a leak, but in new construction it is usually a result of excessive humidity in the home. In some cases the cupping will disappear after the moisture has been corrected and the wood has had time to dry thoroughly but in many cases the damage is irreversible.

The top picture is typical of cupping in a new home where hot weather and high humidity in the home has effected the hardwood. This cupping is more subtle but obvious when the floor is carefully examined.

The bottom picture is cupping caused by a leak and extreme humidity in an existing home. This floor will likely never recover from the damage and will need to be replaced.

A few unfortunate situations have recently come to my attention regarding hardwood floor conditions during the PDI.

During the PDI the new home owners felt that "something" was not right with the hardwood floors and in each case, the home owners concerns were dismissed by the builders PDI rep.

In the cases that I am aware of, the home owners discovered after the PDI that the hardwood had "cupped" and that this specific issue was required to be identified at the PDI if it was to be covered by warranty.



Now these homeowners are faced with the burden of keeping track of and maintaining specific humidity levels in the home, in faint hopes that the condition will correct itself.

I contacted a hardwood floor expert and he said.

"The builder should not be installing hardwood in the home where humidity levels are not controlled."

As you know, when new homes are built in the summer, humidity levels in the air can be very high. Air conditioners and dehumidifiers are not employed during construction to control humidity in the home. This exasperates the situation and contributes to an environment where "cupping", warping, and other hardwood conditions like crowning can occur.

I am waiting to be impressed by "some" PDI reps. They should be trained professionals who are able and willing to step up to the plate and acknowledge and identify symptoms and conditions in the home other than the standard counter scratches or dent in a wall.

During your PDI, check the hardwood floors carefully for a wavy appearance. Get down on the floor, run your hand over the boards to feel if they lie flat. Use a straight edge across the floor boards to confirm that they are flat. If any cupping or crowning is found then you must insist that the specific issue is noted on the PDI form.

Buying and taking possession of your new home should be an enjoyable experience that is not tarnished by a feeling that you have been taken advantage of.

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Bump Article by Andy Shaw

Originally posted Feburary 8th 2009 during a big snow melt.

Sump Pumps call for help !!

Has the Halton Home Inspector gone a bit nutty ??

Why else would someone suggest that sump pumps are calling for help.

Here is the answer.

Now that the snow is melting, and with rain coming soon, there are many busy little sump pumps all around Milton, pumping away as their sump pits continue to fill with water. So what happens to that water ? The water is diverted out of the house through a black plastic pipe that dumps the water right beside the house. Most of time, at this time of year, and at many homes, a lot of this water just runs down the exterior foundation wall, back under the house, and back into the sump pit, where the motor pumps it out again.

This sump recycling action can go on and on, and your sump pump works harder than it needs to.

At this time of year, when sump pumps are busy, it might be a good idea to be creative and set up some temporary method to divert this water well away from your home. Make a path in the snow, jerry rig an extension, or at least confirm that your splash block is right up against the foundation wall and sloped away from the home.

Your sump pump will thank you.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Do the people that do your actual home inspection hold BCQ (BUILDING CODE QUALIFIED) or CBCO (CERTIFIED BUILDING CODE OFFICIAL) designations from the Ontario Building Officials Association? Any you provide inspectors hold this provincial designation?

What are your rates for the PDI, frame walk and 30 day.

Let me know.

Thank you

_________________
Paul (P. Eng, MBA, Ph.D)

The qualifications you speak of would only be required if one was to pursue work with a municipality. We therefore have concentrated our continuing education time on subjects and courses that are relevant the performing quality home inspections.

The Certifications we carry include specific Home Inspection training with regards to - Roofing, Exterior, Structure, Electrical, Heating, Cooling, Insulation, Plumbing, and Interior issues.

Our Training also includes Defect Recognition for new and older homes. We also carry certification from the Ontario Building Code - Ministry of Municipal Affairs and Housing for Building Envelope issues and have received training with regards to health and safety issues.

For package pricing please call us by phone at 905 876 4761

Andy Shaw
Certified Inspector
Halton Home Inspection Service

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

HRV 101 - By Andy Shaw - March 15 2009

A real Heat Recovery Ventilator ( HRV ) needs to have these components,

1 - A fresh air supply fan.
2 - An exhaust fan.
3 - An air to air exchanger.



Keeping your Heat Recovery Ventilator maintained can help keep your homes environment fresh, clean and healthy.

The problem is that many people don't even know what they do.

Winter is when HRV's are used the most. This is because we are closed in, windows and doors are never left open, and fresh air rarely gets a chance to enter the home. In the winter, the HRV takes warm stale air from inside the home and sends it outside. At the same time, it pulls cool fresh air into the home. As the warm air is passed over the cool air, the HRV transfers the heat from that air to the cool air coming in from outside. This warms the fresh cool air that is brought into the home.

Many people only use their HRV for an hour or so after cooking, but most people leave them on at an intermittent setting so that the unit runs for a few minutes every hour.

To keep your HRV running well, you should follow these steps.

NOTE - Before you service or clean your HRV, it should be turned off.

1) Clean the foam Air Filters.
Clogged foam filters can lower ventilation efficiency and damage the fans. Clean your filters every three months. Filters in most new HRVs can be easily removed, cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, and then washed with soap and water before being dried and replaced. This job should only take a few minutes.

2) Inspect the plastic Condensate Drain Pipe.
Your HRV has a clear condensate drain pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom of the unit. Make sure it is clean and is not clogged with debris.

3) Clean the Heat Exchange Core in the early fall.
You may find this task to be the most daunting, but after you do it once or twice you will find that it is not that difficult. Check owner's manual for instructions on cleaning the heat exchange core. To remove the core, there is usually a couple clips that you will need to push aside. Depending on the brand, the access door may need to be removed at the hinges. The core will then need to be carefully but firmly pulled out from the unit. Follow the instructions in the manual for cleaning.

4) Service the Fans once a year.
Do this when you are cleaning the core. You should remove the dirt that has accumulated on the fan blades by gently brushing or vacuuming them. Most new HRVs fans are designed to run continuously without lubrication. Check your manual for complete instructions.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

Buying a new Air Conditioner for your new home ???

By Andy Shaw - March 19th 2009



We are so tempted today to just look at the latest flyer in the door for products, go to the big box store for advice, or just sit on the phone calling people for quotes, but in reality, that's not how you should buy your homes first Air Conditioning system.

Air Conditioners have two jobs. One is to remove the heat from the home, and the other job is to remove the humidity form the home.

With Air Conditioning, size is everything. If the unit is too big, then it will cool the home before it can remove the humidity. Now you have a cool damp home. If it's too small, then you end up with a system that struggles on the hottest days of the year.

The rule-of-thumb is that A/C systems are sized by the Tonne. One tonne for every 1000 square feet is a general rule. Therefore a 1500 square foot home may require a 1.5 tonne system and a 3000 square foot home may require a 3 tonne system.

These general rules do not always work because other evaluation is required by a professional before the size is determined.

For example, what is your homes exposure to the sun, or, is your home shaded by other homes? Is your home all brick that will absorb heat, or is it a siding material? Is your home detached, or a semi? Maybe the back of your home faces south west, has lots of big windows, and gets hot even on cold days. This is just some of the information that is required to determine the proper size of an Air Conditioner for your home.

This is the problem when you buy an A/C system from a nice fellow with an orange smock, or from a company that just got in a huge load of 2 tonne A/C units and has sent out a flyer.

I know price is important, but what price will you pay in comfort if you spend the next 15 years in your home with a struggling, or jumbo sized A/C system.

What I am saying here, is that when shopping for an A/C system, you should ask that a Comfort Advisor or other Representative from the company visit your home first. Any company that will not oblige you with this service with a smile should not be considered.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

We appreciate the kind comments that our customers make on this forum. For your convenience, a few of them have been re-posted here for your review.












Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
http://www.haltoninspections.com

_________________


For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

The Carbon Monoxide Sick House.

By Andy Shaw - Feb 22 / 2010

Some builders of new homes wonder why in the world you would want good independent Home Inspection. After all, the house is looked at many times during the construction process, so what could be wrong they ask ????

The fact is, that many things are wrong, code violations abound, and many things are not installed properly or are completely missing.

The photo below is of a HRV Tandem Vent at the back of a home. This dual HRV vent is a single unit that sucks air in from the bottom to the HRV, and the exhaust air from the house goes out the top of the vent. Note that it's directly above a gutter and right beside the white exhaust pipe vent from the homes gas water heater. As well, the intake at the bottom of this vent is missing a screen that is required by code to prevent vermin and insects from entering the duct of this ventilation system.
Imagine a nest of mice and their waste inside the intake vent to this ventilation system. This would not be a good situation at all.



In this case the bottom of the vent is too close to the gutter which is considered a "permanent horizontal surface". An 18 inch clearance is the Ontario Building Code minimum requirement for this height rule.

And, the most serious issue, is that this HRV Vent is required by the Gas Code to be 6 feet away from the white exhaust pipe beside the HRV Vent.


In conclusion, this HRV Vent installation in the photo violates 2 Ontario Building Codes and one Gas Code. One of the violations is a health safety matter.

Andy Shaw - 905 876 4761
Halton Home Inspection Service
http://www.haltoninspections.com

UPDATE After this post was made, this issue was repaired. However, the repair was not done promptly.

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For the Home Inspection services that you need and deserve, call Andy Shaw at 905 876 4761

We've been having issues with our roof and losing sleep and money. Different companies have been giving us conflicting reports and I didn't know who I could believe or trust.

I decided we needed an unbiased, third party as everyone we've been dealing with had their own agenda. I contacted Halton Home Inspections.

Andy Shaw came today to inspect our roof. He was friendly, knowledgeable, thorough and explained our situation in terms I could understand. He's a guy who's on your side and wants to see big builders accountable for their products.

We will be using his services again in the future and I highly recommend him and his company.

Thank You very much Andy. You were professional, caring and have given us the chance to sleep easy again knowing what we have to do to fix our problem once and for all.

We just had an inspection done by Andy.. he was very detailed and precise.
We were very pleased with our inspection.

Thanks again Andy