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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:56 am 
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I keep reading on this forum - that we should get Mattamy to install a conduit from basement to attic for later when we realize that we didn't get all the cable, phone, network, potlights, etc.. into the rooms we want on the second floor.

1. So does that mean that I don't have to have Mattamy install extra outlets, cable or phone lines?

2. Does anyone know how this is described in the Upgrade List?

3. What is the cost for doing this?

We have purchased an Amesbury model and have our design appt scheduled for Monday.

Thanks,


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:31 pm 
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TechMonkey,

I have it from a good source :wink: that the firestop you refer to, is not used in new houses, so that should make life easier for us all!

Hope this helps.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:39 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
She also pointed out that it would be installed at the access panel in the basement (which is logical). The cost for us is $203 (50' lot) and it's a 2 1/4" diameter conduit.


Ha! No it won't.. It will end up in the basement where ever the straightest line is from top to bottom. And the pipe used it whatever is handy at the time. I have seen everything from 2" vac pipe to 3" drain pipe. Usually it's vac pipe since that's cheap and easily available.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:41 pm 
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Greg,

This is still something we should have done though, correct?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:42 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
When you drop the wire through a wall cavity, what do you do if you run into a fireblock halfway down the wall? This is the small ~13" piece of horizontal 2x4 that is used to join one stud to another (also prevents stud twisting).


I've never encountered fire blocking like that in any new homes I've worked in in the last few years.

Now my 50 year old house has lots of it, diagonally, and that makes it a huge pain in the butt to do anything.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:46 pm 
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Milton Smiths wrote:
Greg,

This is still something we should have done though, correct?


As far as I am concerned, everyone should get it.. but I'm usually the guy who has to tell people "No, I cannot neatly add a cable/phone/network jack to your second floor bedroom without putting holes in your drywall. If you had a conduit from basement to attic it wouldn't be an issue."

It's cheap enough that if you never use it, no harm done.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:18 pm 
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We already had our appointment and didn't think of this at all!

We installed cable and phone in each room though (not that we'll need it) so we should be ok right?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:24 pm 
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Jeannie,

Yes, you should be ok! However - you can bet that you paid Mattamy alot more $$$ than what doing this would have cost! It's only $203 for the conduit and then Greg could have come in and done the cables and phones after closing.

Oh well, I guess we are all learning as we go!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 4:32 pm 
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You want as straight a run as possible from top to bottom. The more 90's you throw in there means it's more difficult to pull wire through.

The run will usually be on an interior wall and follow a vertical plumbing chase. This is good because if it's on an outside wall then the roof pitch will get in the way in the attic and the insulation and wrap will get in the way in the basement.

There are no corners cut. The job is for a conduit basement to attic. It does not have to end up over at the panel. Why do you need it to? You can bring the wire down through the conduit opening and then just run it over through the joist cavity, just like every other wire in the basement.

I have no idea what an AGAPI is. If that is a salesperson, please keep in mind salespeople are not trades people. They don't actually do the work.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 4:34 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
Incidentally, depending on the layout of your house, you may be able use your cold air return duct as a sort of make-shift conduit.

I've done this in my current house (no conduit) and it works well...


Sure, if you want to pay for plenum grade wire..

When using a ventilation system for cabling, you have to use a cable with a jacket grade that does not give off toxic fumes when it burns. Otherwise those fumes get around the house very easily by the very ductwork you have it in.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:15 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
I was referring to the cold air return, not a heating duct (carries the air before it enters the furnace).


Yup, same thing either way. It carries air from one point of the house to another.

And I know about the security companies who place the horns in the cold returns. I asked one about it and he said he knew, but didn't care about the fire code. Wasn't impressed.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 8:19 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
This isn't the first time this has happened with Mattamy folks. I'm afraid of what other surprises await... a conduit location isn't a big deal, something else might be.


Oh dear.. well like most things electronic, or wiring wise, it's not always understood by the sales people, trying to translate what the home owner wants to a line item in their price book.

The builders I work with I am the one who actually meets with the clients and goes over all their needs to make sure they get what they want and that it works the way the want.

If anyone else has questions like this about your house.. let me know. Even if I don't install it, I'd still rather you get what will actually work and do the job.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 11:06 am 
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Just to let everyone know, we had our upgrade appointment on Wednesday and the conduit in our Emery Town House was $203.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 5:27 pm 
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TechMonkey wrote:
TThorpe wrote:
When you think about it, it's really only about $40 worth of parts (and that's the price you'll get if you go to Rona or HD


But it will take some management time to get someone to do the job, then drive out there, figure out where to run it, cut, dry fit and glue, clean up. Then bill, and wait around 60 days to get paid.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 8:31 pm 
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Please don't let them using plumbing pipe. The 90 degree bends in that stuff is not adequate to get cable around. I have fought with it before and even though it may be a 2" pipe, getting about 3/4" of cable around one of those short 90s is near impossible.

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